Thank You To You

I like blogging. I really do. I find it quite creative, interesting and stimulating. And a little like free therapy (and you can't beat free therapy, now can you?). The past few months have been life changing, and it's been an incredible experience to be able to share them with you (well, incredible for me, I don't know about you guys, shame).

Thank you for coming along for the ride, for all the kind words, and for all the encouragement. And to those of you who hosted us, dined with us, shared with us, and overall made this adventure as amazing as it was - you all know who you are. Thank you also to all our wonderful family and friends who contributed to our Leaving On A Jet Plane fund at our wedding last year, and helped make this whole thing possible.

And now, now it's time for real life. That real life that I kept saying how frightened/excited/terrified I was to get to. So where I'm getting to with this, is that it's time for a blog-break, a little siesta, a momentary lapse - mostly because I like this blogging thing so much that it takes up a whole chunk of my spare time. And now I need all that spare time, for things which are probably *just* a little bit more important.

Slowing things down, a little bit of a wind down on the blog front while I get my life in order. 

But I'm not completely letting go, there'll be a pic a day to keep you entertained, and Husband has said I must get out a holiday wish list before my birthday creeps too near (yes, it's nearly birthday time, and then Christmas - two of my favourite days of the year!)

So thank you for joining us along our journey so far. Regular posts will continue as normal in a few weeks time. Once the chaos has subsided. 

If you wanna be the first to know when I'm properly back online, type your email address into the Follow By Email bar on the right hand side of this post. Or leave a comment, and I'll be sure to send you a message when I'm back.

But, for now, it's real life time.
See you soon now xx

[Map from Google Maps]

The Road Trip Diaries: Death Valley, CA

7 November 2012

Our first morning in Death Valley we wake up to the sound of activity outside. A gentle chattering of voices, and someone doing a mike check. We're on the ground floor, and our door opens onto a field, which is already bustling. Soon enough, there's a small band tuning out some wonderfully cheerful country music. With the sun shining in, and a gentle breeze tugging at the curtain, the day doesn't take long to pull us outside.

Death Valley was first officially discovered in 1849, when a bunch of prospectors en route to the gold fields in California thought they had stumbled across a shortcut. Unfortunately Death Valley is nothing of the sort. The national park these days comprises nearly 3.4 million acres of desert wilderness, and is definitely not what you could call hospitable.

Death Valley is a long, narrow basin 282 feet below sea level. The combination of the sparse plant life, dry air and being flanked by high mountain ranges mean the valley rarely cools down. It holds second place for the highest temperature recorded in the world, at 134 degrees fahrenheit (56 degrees celsius).

Two to four thousand years ago there was a 30-foot lake in the valley, but all that remains today is a thick layer of salt on the valley floor, known as Badwater Basin. From a distance it looks like water, and there even is water a short distance below the surface, but this isn't the kind of water you want to be drinking.

Those early pioneers had it hard - many of their horses died along the way, and the wagons were near to impossible to move through the mountain passes. The valley floor is nothing more than a barren wasteland. The pioneers did miraculously survive - by the efforts of one of their number who went ahead to find help, while the rest, too sick and too tired to carry on, waited behind.

Today, those '49ers are still celebrating their survival - we were lucky enough to be there while their annual reunion was going on, and were treated to art, costume and antique fairs and shows. The Furnace Creek Ranch was bustling.

How cool is that?

Today the valley is a very different place from all those years ago when those pioneers struggled across it - there are tarred roads, signposts, and refreshing saloons. There was even a pool at our ranch - something you definitely don't expect to see in a desert!

It might be a barren wasteland, but it is beyond beautiful. Death Valley completely kicked the Grand Canyon's ass.

We spend the day visiting a few of the tourist spots - old abandoned mines, great views of the valley, the salt pan and an unbelievably twisty road known as Artist's Drive.

8 November 2012

We drive out of Death Valley after one last yummy lunch at the 49er Cafe - this place serves up some good grub considering its in the middle of nowhere!

The road runs like a long stick of liquorice lain out across the landscape, left in the sun to melt, so that it forms perfectly to the ground, dipping and diving over the once-molten earth.

Reaching the next valley basin, we turn due south, straight into the sand. It feels like it's raining down on us, the road is barely visible, as the sand grains bristle up against the car.

All good things come to an end right? We reach our last destination (for now), mount endless trips back and forth from the car to gather the myriad of road trip possessions we now seem to own, and do our best to fool ourselves, and our hosts, that we really do not have that much stuff. Never mind the other full suitcase that's due to arrive from New York by post next Friday. We'll keep that on the down low for now.

Shhhh.

The Road Trip Diaries: Grand Canyon, AZ

3 November 2012

After checking in, we head straight to the rim – it’s hard to stay away. It's completely captivating. I never expected it to be quite so big. It stretches out in both directions as far as the eye can see. A mere ten miles away as the crow flies is the other side - the north rim, but it'll take you 256 miles to get around from one side to the other. Down below, the Colorado river cuts a deep track through the canyon. Tributaries and footpaths wind through the valley. I'm amazed that there are big sections along the edge without a railing - and the drop is fierce and straight down. This is not the kind of place you want to bring small children.

But a chill breeze is whipping up from the canyon, and soon we’re inside sipping on warm apple cider, which is sweet and cinnamon-y, and lights a warm fire inside.

4 November 2012

Jees it is icy out here. We’re hit by the biting cold as we walk out the door to head to breakfast. My ears are pounding, nose running, and fingers frozen when we reach the El Tovar - a mere ten minute walk way! Pancakes and hot coffee to the rescue.

We take the morning slow after that, wandering around the Grand Canyon Village - along the rim, to the park headquarters and the marketplace. It's wonderful to see the desert landscape so alive with trees, scrubs and elk. Yes, elk. Cool hey?

There's these wonderful tarred pathways along much of the rim, and through the park, which make for a nice gentle walk around the grounds.

Lunch is, once again, at the El Tovar. French onion soup starter, and peanut chicken lettuce wraps as a main. We share both. The portions here are just to big to order our own meals. But the food sure is good.

In the afternoon we catch the shuttle westbound, to see another section of the canyon. At the second last stop we jump out, and walk back towards the village. It's a marvellous way to get away from the crowds, and to really enjoy the peaceful quality of the canyon.

We were told that one of the best spots to watch the sunset is at Mohave Point, and (with a bit of rushing towards the end of the walk) make it just in time.

5 November 2012

We decide to skip out on the Grand Canyon a day early - we've covered most of the South Rim by bus, car and foot, and since it's off-season, there's not much else to do. It's too cold (and we have colds) to venture into the canyon, the summer musical performances and evening programs ended a long time ago. It's actually about a week until most of the resort shuts down for winter.

So after one last breakfast at the El Tovar, and one last stop to take in the view at Yavapai Point, we're off.

Cancelling our last night at the Maswik Lodge means we now have one free night until we get to our next destination, and we've decided to use it for a spontaneous detour...

...to Las Vegas.

[Map from Google Maps]

The Road Trip Diaries: Santa Fe, NM

29 October 2012

It's late when we finally make it to Santa Fe. Darkness has already swept across the valley.

My clock tells me it's nearly eight, but we've driven across another time zone, so here it's only nearly seven. We've been driving for twelve hours. It doesn't take us long to grab a few essentials, check-in to the hotel, and hit the sack. After a quick chicken salad in the hotel restaurant. Refuel. Refuel.

30 October 2012

It's quite a magical feeling waking up to a world you've only experienced in the dark. Last night Santa Fe looked no more than a scattering of stars in a valley. This morning it's a wonderfully Mexican town - all the buildings are low to the ground, painted in earth hues and almost disappear into their surroundings. Fall has taken hold here, and has painted the trees to match. The air is sharp, but gloriously warm in the sun.

After a much needed morning in bed we head out to Cafe Guadalupe, for a Mexican lunch of burritos and chipotles. The food was OK, but not amazing. I'm leaving this one off the list of contact numbers.

A short walk down the road takes us to the Loretto Chapel, and the Miraculous Staircase. 

In the evening we take a brisk walk around the centre of town. Brisk because it is pretty damn chilly out. The town has a wonderful ambience with its Mexican feel.

Dinner is at Santa Cafe. They've provided us with crayons and a paper tablecloth, so I do the only sensible thing and draw all over the table. Husband thinks I'm crazy, but eventually joins in with a round of hangman. This restaurant has come highly recommended, and besides from a moody hostess, and a mess up with Husband's order, the food is good. I have steak, with chilli potato mash, and when Husband's correct meal arrives, it's a yummy scallop fettucini.

31 October 2012

I awake on one of my favourite days of the year feeling worse than ever. Throbbing headache, running nose, my brain feels like its been stuffed with cottonwool. I stare blankly at the TV - we're watching the aftermath of Superstorm Sandy. Its devastatingly chilling.

Mushy brain. Mushy brain. 

Lunch is at La Boca. I had the beet soup starter, which was heavenly creamy. And followed it with a lump crab sandwich and salad. Husband had the flat-iron steak and potatoes. Too good to be true.

Halloween night was an absolute treat. Our lunchtime waitress had passed on some suggestions to Husband, who then surprised me with a trip to a Haunted House. And man, it was a good one. Waiting in line I was already shaky with the screams echoing from inside.

Once we're in, a white-faced host in a top hat guides us through the partitions - each room has a set-up like a scene from American Horror Story. The costumes were intense, and very realistic - they had people tied up to electric chairs, deformed weirdos in wheelchairs and psychopaths who wanted us for their next experiment! It was exceedingly creepy.

Husband even says it was fookin terrifying. It is so difficult these days to scare people, we're all so jaded. So having the wits scared out of us was quite exciting. I was trembling as we got back into the car. It was bloody brilliant.

Next we had dinner, at La Plazuela - nachos and ribs. A lot of the couples there were dressed up even the old tops dancing to the live country music.

Finally we ended up at Ore House at Milagro where the Halloween party was just kicking off. The place was packed! And everyone was dressed to the nines. It was awesome.

1 November 2012

We drive out of town for lunch. We've heard about a certain green chilli cheeseburger at a certain Bobcat Bite which must be had. I'm feeling especially fragile from Halloween night, so the greasy burger hits the spot. Bobcat Bite is a tiny run-down diner with only a few tables. The waitress is super friendly though, and when our burgers arrive, piping hot, and supremely delicious we know we have found a winner.

After lunch we explore Canyon Road, which is just art gallery after art gallery. We see some really nice  stuff - incredible sculptures, and emotive paintings. It's wonderful walking along in the autumn sun, peeking into the galleries.

We were supposed to be heading to Denver for Halloween, but Husband had a complication with a voice recording he was scheduled to do. In the end staying in Santa Fe for four days was the most ideal thing we could have done. We just needed the break! Being able to unpack, chill and spend mornings in bed has been the best kind of medicine, and the perfect way to round up our holiday.

2 November 2012

Husband is up early for his voice recording, and soon after we're in the car, on the road.

I'm achingly aware of how close we are to the end of this road trip. It is a dull pain in my side. It feels bittersweet to be saying goodbye to the road - as it always does when a holiday comes to an end. But soon I will be able to unpack, and settle back in, and set up routines. And I guess I can take comfort in that.

Restaurants in Review:

Santa Cafe
231 Washington Avenue  Santa Fe, NM 87501
(505) 984-1788
La Boca

72 West Marcy Street  Santa Fe, NM 87501 (505) 982-3433La Pluzuela

100 East San Francisco Street  Santa Fe, NM 87501 (505) 982-5511Ore House at Milagro

139 West San Francisco Street  Santa Fe, NM 87501
(505) 983-8687
Bobcat Bite
418 Old Las Vegas Highway  Santa Fe, NM 87505
(505) 983-5319

Accommodation in Review:

Hotel Santa Fe

1501 Paseo De Peralta  Santa Fe, NM 87501 (505) 982-1200

[Map from Google Maps]